18th March- Mostar- Blagaj- Vitaljina (Kravice waterfalls)- Medugorje- 60kms
If anyone is ever in Mostar you MUST stay with Sonya at Mostar downtown Hostel. She made me feel extremely welcome and couldn’t do enough for me and the other guests. Even though her mum doesn’t speak a word of English you can tell she’s got the same heart of gold too. It’s a new hostel which is why I’m promoting it, but it’s genuinely one of the nicest hostels I’ve stayed in. The rooms are clean, perfect location and Sonya just made me feel at home all for under €9 a night.
I had a little look around Mostar last night, but wanted to give it another few hours in day light and I’m so happy I did. It may have over taken Dubrovnik as my new favourite place so far. It’s almost like a movie set, it doesn’t look real! I thought I’d been to medieval towns in the past, but Mostar makes them all look modern compared. The cobbled streets, the old shop fronts, the pure green river, beautiful bridge, mixture of Muslim and catholic influence, ohh I’m in love with this place.
I took far too many photos of the same spot just because it was so beautiful.
The old bridge below was built in 1566 and ever since then it’s been where the ‘mostari’ high dive from it into the fast flowing river. During the war the bridge was damaged and completely destroyed in 1993, then took 7 years to get it reconstructed- formally opening in 2004.
10.30am I’m finally on the road, after posing for photos with Sonja, her mum and the other guests for a little and taking what I’m sure was motherly advice from Sonjas mum!
The first half of the cycle was my favourite so far. I followed the river Buna down to Blagaj, a tiny springs village and stopped for a little rest. A guy walked past and said in perfect English that it was a lovely day, which took me by surprise. It turned out he spent 15 years in London, lived in Brentford- small world!
Finding Kravice waterfalls was a little tougher than expected, hardly any signposts other than the turning for it. It was almost 4pm by the time I reached it- wow what a view!
I was admiring the view when a dude on a motorbike started talking to me, telling me he has a bar in Ljubski around 6km from here, etc etc. I asked him if he knew somewhere I could camp and he tried to be nice advising me not to camp here as its too cold with the water so close by.
I really wanted to wild camp as the first night is the only time I’d done it, but this guy stuck around and I worried that I’d be out here and what if he wasn’t just a nice guy and he’d come back. It’s hard because I like to believe most people are good, but where do you draw the line at being naive.
I went with my gut and decided to scrap the camping idea and head to the nearest village with accommodation, which I thought was 6km, it was 13km and the sun was chasing me….